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Ten feet from somebody else’s bedroom

There is no association on this island to referee anything. There is a four-foot gap and a person on the other side of it. This page is about doing the job without starting something.

Three things worth understanding before any of the detail.

One: heard and felt are different problems. Airborne noise travels through the air and is about placement, distance and what is between the unit and the listener. Structure-borne vibration travels through the building and is about mounts and fixings. They need different fixes, and money spent on the wrong one does nothing. Vibration is also the one people find hardest to live with, because it is felt in a room rather than heard from outside it.

Two: the conversation is cheaper than the dispute. Telling a neighbour what you are planning, before it happens, converts a complaint into a discussion. It costs ten minutes and it is the single most effective thing on this page. It is also the thing people most want to skip.

Three: we will not interpret your city’s rules. Noise limits and setbacks are the city’s to state and they differ between them. We will give you the manufacturer’s published figures and the measured distances, which is what anybody ruling on it will ask for. What those mean under a particular ordinance is not ours to say.

Pick the job and how close the buildings are. Everything below is written out in full.

With a shared wall, the problem is almost certainly vibration rather than noise.

A machine bolted to a wall that two households share does not have to be loud to be unbearable. Vibration passes directly into the structure and arrives in the next room as a low hum that is felt rather than heard — the kind of thing somebody notices at two in the morning and cannot locate, and which a sound meter outside the building may not register at all.

What actually addresses it. Not screening, and not moving the unit two feet. Isolation at the fixing: proper anti-vibration mounts rated for the weight, a pad that is actually doing something rather than a strip of foam, and — best of all — not mounting to the shared wall in the first place. A unit on its own stand on the ground, or on a bracket on a different wall, solves at source what mounts only reduce.

Two things that make it worse. Rigid pipework clamped hard to the same structure, which carries vibration further than the unit itself does. And a unit that has loosened over time — fixings work slack, and a machine that was fine for three years can start transmitting without anything having “broken”.

And one thing to check first if this is already happening: whether anything has loosened. We have resolved complaints that had run for months by tightening and re-isolating a mount, which costs almost nothing compared with what everybody had been assuming.

The job

Putting in cooling for the first time

The best position, because everything is still a choice.

Work out where it can go before you decide what to buy. On a narrow lot there are usually only two or three possible positions, and each has consequences — clearance for the machine to breathe, service access, distance to the nearest window, whose window it is, and how the line set gets there. A unit crammed into the only spot that was convenient will run hot, cost more and annoy somebody.

Tell the neighbour. Before it happens, in person, with a rough idea of where and when. It converts the whole thing from something done to them into something they knew about. People who are told are people who wait a week before mentioning a noise; people who are surprised ring the city.

And decide about mounts now. Isolation fitted at installation costs very little. Retrofitting it means taking the unit off the wall, which costs a great deal more.

How close

A narrow gap between two houses

The standard Alameda situation, and the one with the most levers.

The gap is a problem twice over. It puts the machine close to somebody, and it reflects sound between two hard parallel walls, which makes a unit in a gap louder at the far end than the same unit in the open. That is why a position that looks marginally worse on a plan is sometimes much better in practice.

What helps here: getting the unit out of the narrowest section if there is any choice, keeping it away from directly under either window, leaving genuine clearance so it is not fighting for air, and a screen that absorbs rather than reflects if one is needed.

And clearance is not optional. A unit squeezed into a gap with less air than it needs runs hotter, costs more and fails earlier. That is the argument to make if somebody is proposing to fit one into a space that will not take it.

Do this

Next step

Decide the position before the equipment, and tell the neighbour before the installation. Those two, in that order, prevent most of what this page is about.

Last

What we will not do

We will not claim a noise level. We will quote the manufacturer’s published rating and say where it came from. What it sounds like at a particular window depends on the buildings, the surfaces between them and the hour, and anybody giving you a number for that has not measured it either.

We will not interpret your city’s ordinance. We will give you the published figures and the measured distances. What they mean under a particular rule is for the city.

We will not assess a neighbour’s equipment on your behalf without their knowledge, and we will not write a report intended to be used against them.

And we will not install something into a position that has no clearance, however much you want it there. It will run hot, cost more and fail early, and we would rather lose the job than be the reason.

Next

The twenty minutes with a tape measure

A visit, the possible positions measured, the windows either side noted, the published sound figures written down, and an honest answer about which position will cause you the least trouble over fifteen years.